It is the end of June and we are three months into the Covid-19 pandemic. New York City has been slowly and cautiously re-opening amid protests that swept the five boroughs and the nation at large. The masses went to the streets to peacefully demand justice because black lives matter. Frustration towards the mishandling of the virus paired with this current reckoning of institutionalized racism is compounded by tense anticipation of this November’s presidential election. Will it be a fair election? Will this racist and corrupt administration be removed from power?
Uncertainty abounds but summer 2020 is here and what are we to do?
It is finally time to take a break from remote learning and figure out how to pass the time this summer because many public facilities and attractions will either remain closed or partially re-open with safety protocols in place. It has been forecasted that many Americans will opt out of air travel and hit the open road. Plus, it is unlikely that the EU will open its borders to U.S. tourists anytime soon. With this in mind, I have put together a short list of worthwhile getaways around the New York – New Jersey – Philadelphia region. These states are in various stages of re-opening but hopefully the places on this list will be open to the public in some capacity at some point this summer or later. This list is based on places that I have visited and enjoyed with loved ones.
Mohonk Mountain House 1000 Mountain Rest Road, New Paltz, New York
After I had my second child and had been living in New York City for over a decade I was curious to explore the natural wonders of New York state with my family. The state parks are spread out across this very large state by miles of scenic highways dreamt up by Robert Moses. It requires several hours in the car just to reach many picturesque places. Not one for excessively long drives, I have always yearned to travel around this state by high-speed train as one can easily do in Europe. Since this is not going to happen anytime soon, we have taken some road trips into the beautiful Hudson Valley that did not take us further than two hours away from home. Five years ago, my husband suggested we try out Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz for a quick getaway with our kids who were just seven and two years old. The historic landmark was featured on an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s show No Reservations and we were intrigued to check it out since it is just under a two-hour drive from our home in Queens. Mohonk Mountain House exceeded our expectations. It was the ideal escape from the unbearably hot city at the end of August and probably the most comfortable and easiest way to connect with nature for a bunch of city folk.
Mohonk Mountain House is a treasures of the Hudson Valley dating back to 1869. It is tucked away in the mountains overlooking a large and peaceful lake where guests are permitted to swim or explore in a canoe, paddle boat or kayak. We stayed at Mohonk for four nights in August 2015 and enjoyed this peaceful atmosphere so much that we returned for five nights the following summer. Not only was it a breath of fresh air but we were surprised by the drop in temperature up in the mountains. The cooler evenings allowed us to take full advantage of the fireplaces in our Victorian rooms. The mountain house has a selection of room types and sizes, some with fireplaces, but none furnished with televisions. We welcomed this omission because our evenings were spent either cuddling in front of the fireplace with the kids or sitting on the balcony overlooking the lake and appreciating the silence of our peaceful surroundings. Beyond the confines of our room were a number of welcoming common spaces and outdoor patios for the guests to enjoy.
The most attractive feature of Mohonk Mountain House is that it is an all-inclusive establishment. The room reservation covers all meals and a wide range of outdoor and indoor activities. The daily menu is developed around locally sourced ingredients creatively prepared into a broad selection of healthy and delicious dishes. The food at Mohonk is representative of this region’s commitment to comforting and inventive cooking. Alcohol is not included but available for an extra charge. We were able to purchase bottles of wine from an educated and reasonably priced wine list as well as choose from a number of sophisticated and imaginative cocktails. Most of the meals are served in the main dining room, however, there are additional outdoor eating options for lunch and dinner as well as a couple a cozy bar.
In addition to swimming or canoeing around the lake, there are hiking trails, rock climbing, biking, horseback riding, wagon rides, golf, an indoor pool, a spa and so much more to keep adults and children of all ages busy. I had the opportunity to get a facial at the spa where the technician applied organic and locally produced products that were centered around their homemade witch hazel. That was one of the most relaxing and detoxing facials that I have ever experienced, not that I have had many but it was memorable. Given the proximity of Mohonk to NYC, its spa would be reason enough for an overnight getaway and ideal for a ladies’ retreat. All things considered, Mohonk Mountain House has plenty to offer families, couples, friends, anyone looking to disconnect and reconnect with nature.
Storm King Art Center Cornwall, New York & Painter’s Inn Cornwall-On-Hudson, New York
On our drives to Mohonk Mountain House, we passed Storm King Art Center and I had made a mental note to plan a day trip to this outdoor sculpture garden at some point in the future. We finally did so this past November, just months before Covid-19 would lead to worldwide shutdowns. Storm King has not officially re-opened as of this writing but when it does, I recommend a visit to this outdoor art space. It is about an hour’s drive to Storm King from New York City and according to the website, is accessible via public transportation from the city.
Our visit coincided with one of the coldest days in November. It was a brisk yet beautiful day enhanced by the brilliant blue sky and the luscious earth tones of the grounds, all complemented by the striking forms of the monumental artworks. Our six year old daughter and eleven year old son stayed warm running across the open spaces to works by Louise Bourgeois, Alexander Calder, Siah Armajani and so many more. We made our way around on foot for a good part of the day and then hopped onto a tram that took us around the remainder of this extensive property. The vibrant colors and monumental forms drew us across great lawns, up hills and around dazzling foliage. One visit was not enough and it will not be long before we return to Storm King.
After several hours, the cold got the best of us and it was time to find food and shelter. We could have returned to Queens but we decided to make a weekend out of this excursion and booked a room at the Painter’s Inn nearby. The rooms are nothing fancy but they served the purpose for an overnight stay for which we paid about $200. This casual and cozy establishment is home to a large restaurant and bar on the first floor and as evidenced by the packed dining rooms on both Saturday evening and Sunday morning, this is a popular spot for locals. The menu is filled with all-American comfort food dishes that made for a pleasurable dinner and brunch the following morning.
Ocean Place Resort and Spa, Long Branch New Jersey
I grew up on the Jersey Shore but it wasn’t until last summer that I learned about the Ocean Place Resort and Spa in Long Branch. This resort is possibly one of Jersey’s best kept secrets because it has been around for years but unknown to most of my family and friends who reside in the garden state. Ocean Place Resort was the perfect place for an overnight ladies’ retreat with two of my childhood friends. This resorts offers indoor and outdoor eating, lounge chairs and drink service on the beach, a pool and full spa. Even though this is technically not an all-inclusive resort where a nightly rate would include meals, the prices at the restaurants are very reasonable. In addition to the room, the total cost for our overnight stay included the extra fees for three meals: lunch outside on the patio, dinner in our room and brunch at the indoor dining room. Considering the amount of food and bottles rosé consumed, this was not an expensive overnight getaway. Other than the additional cost for meals, drinks from the bar and spa services, there are a number of included and appealing services that are included with the room fee.
During this visit I observed that this is a family-friendly resort and a great option for families coming in from New York City. The hotel provides beach towels, lounge chairs and umbrellas eliminating the need to travel with bulky beach gear. The ability to pack lightly opens up the possibility to use public transportation for those who either do not drive and/or prefer to use public transportation, especially since the traffic going down the shore during the summer is unbearable. The nearby train station services NJ Transit trains running out of Penn Station in Manhattan to shore points including the Long Branch station which is a five minute taxi ride away from the resort.
The beach and the pool are probably more that enough to keep a family with little kids occupied. There are more restaurants and a little village of shops just down the boardwalk from the resort as well as other seaside restaurants in the area that can be reached by car, taxi or Uber. Across the highway and technically walking distance from the resort is Whitechapel Projects, a multipurpose space where people can eat, drink and enjoy live music. If you have a car, the bustling town of Asbury Park is about a twenty minute drive north. Asbury is bursting with character with a plethora of trendy and family-friendly beachfront restaurants plus a beer garden, the performance venue Stone Pony and boutique shopping.
Museum Loop, Philadelphia & The Logan Philadelphia, Curio Collection by Hilton
We had been meaning to visit the museums in Philadelphia for years and due to an unexplained sense of urgency, we took off for a long weekend at the end of September. We booked two nights in Philadelphia at the Logan Philadelphia because it is within walking distance to the three museums I had been wanting to visit with my family. The hotel provided a comfortable stay and amazing food from its restaurant Urban Farmer. The farm-to-table dishes that we tried from the dinner and brunch menus were surprisingly delicious and loaded with fresh ingredients. In the mornings, our server encouraged us to try their english muffins. This was a life-altering recommendation because these muffins were large, soft, other-worldly, like nothing I have ever experienced. We may have ventured out in the evenings to try out other restaurants but we looked forward to brunch at Urban Farmer.
Enough about the food and more about the art, the main purpose of this visit. It had been years since I had visited the Philadelphia Museum of Art and I am pretty sure that I had only walked past the Rodin Museum. Our late afternoon visit to the Rodin Museum was short but sweet after lounging in the museum’s courtyard where we gazed at The Gates of Hell and enjoyed some cool drinks and snacks. After the kids ran up the Rocky steps to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, we found our way to the Asian Art galleries where we walked through installations of a 16th century temple from India, a Chinese temple, and a Japanese Teahouse and Garden. We also made sure to stop by the Duchamp Galleries located in the far corner of the Modern and Contemporary wing. And yes, my kids were allowed to looked through the peephole of Étant donnés, the final and shocking work of art secretly produced by Marcel Duchamp over a twenty year period.
Unfortunately, I never visited the Barnes Foundation in its original location in the residential suburb of Merion County, Pennsylvania. There was a lot of controversy surrounding the relocation and appropriation of the Barnes’s world-renown collection by the city of Philadelphia. The 2009 documentary, The Art of the Steal, lays out the details of how the legacy of Dr. Albert C. Barnes was not upheld decades after his untimely passing. Long story short, this move was in direct opposition to the instructions laid out in his will. The current building housing the Barnes Foundation recreates the founder’s idiosyncratic installation of the art and objects. The institutional walls of this bland building did not transfer the spirit that I imagine would have been felt in the original building that also functioned as an art school. I appreciated these efforts but regret not having seen these works in their original home. Current location issues aside, it was like flipping through the pages of an art history textbook as we walked through galleries crammed with works by European modernists such as Matisse, Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, and so many more.
I must have had an unconscious premonition of what was coming because we were exceptionally proactive in the months leading up to the Covid-19 pandemic. I have been surprisingly content during these months of staying home because we did so much ahead of time. We made good use of the months leading up to the shutdowns by visiting museums or other places of interest in our hometown and beyond almost every weekend. However, summer is here and I look forward to making the best of summer 2020!
For more posts about art around New York City and abroad click here.
For more about family travel, local (NYC) and abroad, click here.
Click here if you are looking for a little guidance planning your next vacation.
So many great ideas for summer.